Luckyfish opens this Friday.
Having pumped out sushi (Sushi Roku), robata (Robata Bar), sushi-and-robata (Katana) and steak (BOA) restaurants, the tireless Innovative Dining Group (IDG) is putting fish on the move, so to speak. The new Beverly Hills restaurant will serve sushi via conveyor belt. But considering that living in L.A. has taught us galbi rather than "short ribs" or izakaya over "tapas-style plates", I think we can all manage kaiten-zushi, no?
Kaiten isn't a whole lotta popular around these parts—not too surprising considering that kaiten is really considered low-commitment, fast food in Japan while sushi as a dining experience in L.A. is oft an elevated form. Luckyfish's "polished casual" vibe that IDG's smooth PR talk promises is looking to bridge the disconnect.
The concept is relatively simple: you sit at an elongated bar as small appetizer plates stream past you. Depending on the concept, they're sometimes in individual compartments or boats or train cars—you get the picture. Usually, the plates or compartments are color-coded to indicate price. You see something you like, you pick it up. You get a tally (yes, like dim sum) at the end of your meal.
(Generic examples of kaiten, not meant to represent Luckyfish)
People may disagree, but I find kaiten is an incredibly stressful process. There's etiquette to be followed, whether it's said outright or not. For example: If you touch it, you take it. There’s no going back. It’s sushi, which means it’s usually raw, which means that the risk of contamination is high. Plates aren't covered, so by sheer proximity, your pheromones have already communed with the pinky flesh.
Another one: “Excuse my reach." Uh, uh. This phrase does not exist here. You must wait until your desired item ambles right in front of you. If someone picks it up before you do, tough sushi. Okay, maybe not so tough: most kaiten restaurants allow special orders if something doesn’t come out again or if you’re really in the mood for tons of market-priced toro. But then, why not go to a traditional sushi bar?
A more disconcerting proposition is that you’re never sure how long one plate has been making the rounds, picking up every bit of “conversation” at the table…if you know what I mean. Luckyfish has incorporated radio frequency technology to avoid this problem. A microchip is embedded in each plate to compute the popularity of a particular item but more importantly, to determine how long a plate has been out before it’s taken off. Gosh, we can only hope.
Finally, I must confess that a part of my "irrationale" comes from my college days when this kaiten restaurant down the way became a popular date spot. For whatever reason, that's where I ended up on a couple of it’s-not-really-a-date dates. And every time, the dude and I were so distracted by the revolving food and making sure that we didn’t miss our turn and then realizing that this casual non-date ended up costing about $40 for each of our cash-strapped persons that, well, it never lead to a real hookup.
By the way, did you know that kaiten also refers to a submarine or torpedo from World War II which carried nearly two tons of explosives and had to be piloted by two people on a suicide mission? Why did I mention it? Eh, no reason.
(Credit: Jalopnik.com)
—Jiyeon Yoo
February 12, 2008 4:15 PM |
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